The cult of Carven
Smaller label Carven showed this morning. The brand has built up a cult following under designer Guillaume Henry and the clothes are (slightly) cheaper than some of the other big hitting Parisian labels. This collection had what I would call an ‘Alexa Chung silhouette’: full short skirts were worn high on the waist, shirts were buttoned up to the neck and there was even a few collars...
"Don't f*ck with Mugler"
This is a projection of Lady Gaga’s mouth on the Mugler catwalk last night. It was a video to accompany her friend and stylist Nicola Formichetti’s second collection for the brand. As far as I could tell the lyrics went something like: “don’t f*ck with Gaga, don;t f*ck with Mugler.” As for the clothes…Well, if you were thinking you wanted a MaxMara style...
You’ll notice that this is a chandelier and not in fact some Balmain clothes. I posted it because my pictures were too blurry and the embellished fanciness of the ballroom in Paris’ Le Grand Hotel reflects the embellished Balmain sparkle-athon on the catwalk below. This was the first collection from new designer Olivier Rousteing, but it wasn’t that different to Balmain in the...
Here’s a sight you don’t often see - Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino watching a show stood up. Carine was sat on the first bench to buckle (the white one you can see in the photo is a replacement that some Balenciaga folks swiftly improvised with) but she handled the “seating incident” as the PRs called it with an easy-going Gallic shrug and a smile. And here’s...
Christopher + Donatella: crazy, but it works
Last night was Versus, the Versace diffusion line designed by Christopher Kane. This used to be a licensed-out label, but Versace have brought it right back into the fold - so much so that last night’s show was in the courtyard of the Versace palazzo in Via Gesu, where Gianni once lived. The set was genius. The raised catwalk, medusa heads and labyrynthine stacks of seating that had been...
The other side of Milan Fashion Week
Two of my favourite off-catwalk views today. No prizes for guessing who the Cherry Lady queueing to get into Dolce is…. ….but the back view of the day goes to Margarita Missoni, below. Now THAT is what I call a tan. How do you get to be Margarita Missoni? Because I reckon it’s fun. - Jess Cartner-Morley
Grace Kelly and a dash of Prada’s haute-Austin-Powers autumn collection turned up on the Marni catwalk, but this was an unmistakably Marni show: shapes and colours with just the right amount of awkwardness, and that posh-Boho/bluestocking edge. I loved the colours: like Prada, this was a masterclass in how to make pastels chic. Miuccia’s phrase the other night - “the taboo of...
Sunday morning chic, MFW style
At the Marni show this morning, I had a panorama of international fashion editors opposite me. So I thought it might be fun to see how the different countries approach the style challenge of dressing for a Sunday morning catwalkside seat. (Sorry about the terrible photos. It was about a million degrees in there, I had the heat-shakes.) First up: Anna Dello Russo, in gold sequins. This is...
Sportmax: better than Maxmara this season?
Just happens to be my personal opinion. I really liked this show. Also, note the front row opposite: not one but two editors in orange. Jess Cartner-Morley
Can I get a whoop for the London girls
Everyone at MFW is well jel of the Jonathan Saunders dress that Elle Fashion Director, Anne-Marie Curtis is wearing today. Looking good lady. - Jess Cartner-Morley
There ain't nothing wet about Donatella's mermaids
These are some hard-ass sirens. Footnote: as a rule we are a bit over platforms. But I loved how the slab of lucite under the sandals made it seem as though the girls were rising from the catwalk -Jess Cartner-Morley