Last night was Versus, the Versace diffusion line designed by Christopher Kane. This used to be a licensed-out label, but Versace have brought it right back into the fold - so much so that last night’s show was in the courtyard of the Versace palazzo in Via Gesu, where Gianni once lived. The set was genius. The raised catwalk, medusa heads and labyrynthine stacks of seating that had been there on Friday night for Donatella’s mainline show were gone, and the courtyard had been laid out as a basketball court, with the lines drawn in chalky pastels, and bleachers for the audience. It was night, and the lighting was beautiful, soft and romantic:
This was a sporty collection - strictly in the fashion sense of course (take a look at those heels.) Tennis-dress shapes had skirts that were slit into ribbons; deep V-neck sleeveless shapes had that cricket-sweater silhouette. Aqua, lemon, sky blue all came edged with black:
Christopher Kane works hard every season to find a point where his aesthetic gels with Donatella’s. Sometimes what he does is take the hard edge that Versace has - the studs-on-everything thing - and run with that. Here he took the unblinking, megawatt femininity of Donatella’s ‘mermaids’ collection and turned it into something younger, more modern, quirkier.
Also: how cute do they look together:
- Jess Cartner-Morley